Copyright 2003
The Student Life
 
 

Dick on Food: Try Pho

By Eddie Dick
Staff Writer

If you are looking for an exotic culinary treat in the area, then Pho Ha Vietnamese Restaurant on Indian Hill is the place to go. Its combination of fresh ingredients and unique flavors make it a real winner for readers looking to take a walk on the culinary wild side.

To help me sort out the dizzying array of options on the menu, I brought along Kelli Howard ’04, who was fresh off the boat from a two-month stay in Vietnam. Going to Pho Ha with someone who knows a thing or two about Vietnamese food can be handy, but certainly not necessary.

According to Howard, there are two main things that a reader should know about Vietnamese food. First, expect lots of flavor. Vietnamese cooking embraces the Chinese concept of incorporating all five flavors (sweet, sour, spicy, bitter and salty) in every dish. The focus in Vietnamese cuisine is on creating a balance between flavors, as well as textures, smells, and colors. Second, freshness is a key component. Lots of dishes at Pho Ha come with piles of fresh raw vegetables and herbs; make sure to add them to your meal, as it makes a world of difference.

The first thing you will notice upon arriving at Pho Ha is the rather bleak atmosphere. According to Howard, this is not representative of the typical décor found in Saigon. But with food this cheap and packed full of flavor I had no problem ignoring it. It should be noted that the service is incredibly prompt with waiters almost sprinting to take orders. Unfortunately, communication with the wait staff can sometimes be difficult, and unless you have been boning up on your Vietnamese its a good idea to point to your selected item on the menu to ensure the accuracy of your order.

The name of the restaurant is a reference to the popular beef noodle soup known as Pho. Ordering Pho requires the patron to make a decision as to which part of the cow will accompany the soup. I went for the rather conservative eye round steak, but more adventurous spirits can select various other meats, including cuts of fat and even tripe (bovine stomach lining). A large bowl of Pho suffices as a meal, and will only set you back four dollars and some change.

Accompanying the Pho is a plate of basil, bean sprouts, chili peppers, and lime that should be added to get the full Pho experience. The tables at Pho Ha are also stocked with a wide assortment of condiments that can be added to enhance the flavor of every dish. Howard suggested that I add Siracha for spiciness and hoisin sauce to give the Pho a touch of tangy sweetness. The result was a delicious salty broth that was sweet and tangy but finished with a touch of heat that was just right. The only problem I had with this dish was managing to navigate the astonishingly long noodles into my mouth without making a horrible mess.

Another dish worth pointing out is the plate of egg rolls that reside toward the end of the menu. They come freshly fried, and are paired with a plate of lettuce and mint in which to wrap the rolls. Once the egg roll is bundled inside the lettuce it should be dipped into an accompanying cup of fish sauce before ingestion. This dish is all about the contrast in texture. The piping hot egg roll blends perfectly with the soft mint leaves and fresh lettuce, while the fish sauce gives it just the right amount of sweetness.

My trip to Pho Ha also included an order of charbroiled pork and bean curd shrimp paste, topped with fish sauce and served on a bed of noodles, lettuce and pickled vegetables. I found the charbroiled pork to be cooked to perfection with a slightly charred outer crust lightly covered in a Vietnamese style barbeque sauce. Much less satisfying was the accompanying bean curd shrimp paste, which is essentially shrimp-infused tofu that has been deep-fried. It certainly was not bad, but it lacked the zest of the other items on the menu.

For all you vegetarians out there, the menu at Pho Ha also contains a list of items to suit your needs. Pho Ha provides a great alternative to the Mexican food and hamburgers that have become a staple of the Southern California diet. Plus, taking friends and family out to a Vietnamese restaurant is sure to score you points on the cultural sophistication scale. All in all, Pho Ha is a solid bet for more adventurous cuisine that is still reasonably close to campus.

The Verdict: The perfect cheap meal alternative for Pomona students who are sick of eating Mexican food every time they go out.

Cost: It can run anywhere from $4 to $8 for a meal and tip.

Hours: 8:00 am - 8:00 pm everyday of the week.

Directions: Take Indian Hill Boulevard south, Pho Ha is in a shopping center on the right hand side just before Food for Less.

Pho Ha Vietnamese Restaurant

695 N. Indian Hill Blvd.

Pomona, CA 91767

(909) 622-7578